Bastille Day happens to coincide with a much earlier pagan festival to mark the Southern Hemisphere solstice and culminates a 2 week event called Heiva. The day of celebrations began in the morning with a parade of costumed dancers and decorated floats followed by horse races along the beach. Dressed in grass skirts, adorned with traditional tattoos and painted faces, the riders were a daunting spectacle. It was not only the participants who dressed up for the occasion; most of the women were decked out with intricate headdresses of fresh flowers which they have specially made up and, if cared for, can last a fortnight.
The festivities were compeered by one of the many ladyboys here. Apparently if families have too many male kids, the last born will be brought up as a girl. It is obviously quite a common practice because we have seen a number of incredibly effeminate men around. They are a totally accepted and normal part of the community.
We tucked into a delicious spread of quiches, open sandwiches and cakes, all compliments of the town, before watching a dance display and singing by a school group from Tahiti who are visiting the island for the summer. In the afternoon we sought out the source of some great drumming we heard and ended up watching a rehearsal for a competition. We were memorised by the energetic show put on by the dancers and the harmonious sound made by a variety of local drums and are sad to be missing the full costumed display which will take place on Saturday night. Getting in the dinghy we watched dozens of kids swimming just next to quay where we saw all the sharks being fed...population control?!
Returning to town for dinner we chose one of 3 indoor/outdoor eateries arranged around an open space adjacent to the town’s communal hall. We were treated to a fantastic traditional dance display by different groups and a stunning performance by a fire dancer, all part of the celebrations. It was the classic Polynesian swaying hips in grass skirts with garlands of sweet smelling flowers around their necks and in their hair. The ladyboy compeer entertained the crowd with karaoke in between acts!
