FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Having arrived at night we had only a vague feeling for our anchorage on Fatu Hiva until the next morning.  It rightly has a reputation as one of the most spectacular bays in Polynesia.  High cliffs rise on either side adorned with coconut palms and crowned with tall pillars of volcanic rock.  Originally called Baie de Verges (phalli) for its topography, visiting missionaries disapproved and inserted an “i” in the name.  A river feeds into the end of the narrow bay where there is a glimpse of a white church and the hint of a little harbour behind a stone breakwater.  Spinner dolphins provide daily entertainment but we didn’t see any of the “enormous sharks” mentioned in the pilot book.

The Marquesas, although inhabited by the Micronesian people who populated Hawaii and Easter Island from about the 1^st Century AD, were first “discovered” by the Spanish in 1595.  On arriving in Fatu Hiva, Alvaro Mendaña, was greeted by the tattooed natives paddling out in their canoes in welcome.  He responded by massacring over 200 of them and leaving syphilis as their legacy.  Over the following centuries the islands’ population was further decimated by disease dropping from 80,000 (early 1800s) to 2,000 in 1926.

After 2 weeks at sea we really feel we have finally reached a completely new part of the world.  Very different from the Caribbean, there is a distinctive “South Seas” feel to the place; it is the archetypal tropical paradise.  The Marquesas are the most isolated part of French Polynesia and we found that much of the economy still functions through bartering and exchange.  A fishing lure or some good rope can have more value than euros here.  The picturesque village, bordering the river, is pristine and all the houses abound with fruit trees and flowers.  We now have about 25 kilos of enormous grapefruits and, after someone shinnied up a tree to pick them, a sack full of oranges.  We also collected leaves from the extremely fragrant lemon trees to make tea.

The people are incredibly open and friendly and gave us a warm welcome.  Wood, stone and bone carving seems to be the major occupation and we visited several sculptors to look at their work.  Robin and Miranda bought a stunning tiki carved of rosewood.  We were tempted but they are too large and heavy for our hand luggage!  Sunday morning we attended the Roman Catholic church service which was conducted in the native Marquesan language.  The singing was fantastic and their lovely harmonies filled the building. 

We managed to go on a couple of walks to get our atrophied muscles moving after our long passage.  The island is breathtakingly beautiful, very lush and green with dramatic mountains and steep roads and tracks.  Following a path strewn with blossoms, we visited a waterfall and had a refreshing dip in the cool waters at its base. 

It has been a wonderful stop before sailing across this morning to larger Hiva Oa to officially check in.

Arrived in the Marquesas

After 14 days at sea we have arrived in Fatu Hiva, the most southerly of the Marquesas. We really feel we have landed in the ubiquitous tropical paradise. It's a spectacular anchorage and the people here are welcoming and friendly. We made excellent time on our passage, sailing about 3085 miles in 13 ½ days. We will probably head to Hiva Oa on Monday morning so we can do the official check in. Stories and pictures when we find some internet!

Smooth Passage

We've passed the halfway stage having covered over 1500 miles in 7 days. Today we sailed 247 miles. Days are spent reading, eating, sleeping and on watch with the occasional excitement of catching a fish - 2 mahi mahi yesterday.

GALLOPING THROUGH THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

We anchored in Academy Bay on Santa Cruz in the wee small hours of Tuesday morning.  It’s a very rolly bay and the next morning we had to deploy a stern anchor to prevent us sitting side-on to the huge swell coming in.  Another yacht had a ship drag anchor and swing into them a few days ago so we had to ensure that, unless conditions were dead calm, there was always someone on the boat - sightseeing has been done in shifts!  It’s a lively scene here with sea lions, sharks and spotted eagle rays swimming around us.  Frigate birds and pelicans swoop and dive in and out of the water.  Lots of water taxis preclude the need for our dinghy but on the first morning one managed to take a chunk out of Spiip's swimming platform, missing both fenders we had just put out; Robin was not happy.

The islands are of course famous for their unique wildlife and whatever I write here is going to sound like a cliché.  What we first noticed is how unafraid of humans the birds and animals are.  It’s very special to get so close and, of course, makes for some amazing photo opportunities.  We have been feeling like extras in Dr Doolitle or Disney's Snow White!

Within a short walk of the town, Punta Ayora, is the Darwin Institute, an active research and conservation organisation with a breeding centre for giant tortoises and land iguanas from the islands.  The iguanas suffered from introduced species such as dogs.  Tortoises were decimated over preceding centuries by pirates and mariners who collected them as live meat for their long passages.  It’s heart-wrenching to think of these gentle creatures, which can live for up to 200 years, being treated so hideously.  Heavy rain deterred “Lonesome George” from being very visible.  He is the only one left from his particular type and proving reluctant to breed with tortoises from other islands.  We spent a lot of time watching the antics of the youngsters in their enclosure; climbing over each other, getting turned upside down and practising some male rivalry. 

We also saw tortoises in the wild, wallowing in mud baths on a ranch in the highlands.  They mate inland and by this time of year the females have made the long journey to the beach to lay their eggs.

Another walk took us to Tortuga Bay, a long, powdery white sand beach where we encountered hundreds of black marine iguanas snoozing in the sun.  They are incredibly well camouflaged in the black volcanic rocks along the shore line, so much so that initially we walked straight past them.  A spectacular grove of opuntia cactus trees, which grow out of the tuff, separated the beach from an inland lagoon. 
We were enchanted by a blue booby who was happy for us to get very close.  They look like cartoon birds with their bright blue feet, almost like they have been fitted with silicon gum boots.  IN the evening, we saw small sharks in the shallows of the surf possibly lying in wait for the baby turtles who, once hatched, make their way into the sea from the dunes behind.

The fish market in town is probably the best entertainment in Santa Cruz.  Dozens of pelicans hang out for tidbits of fish but pay deference to the sea lions that nestle up to the legs of the fishermen waiting for the scraps.  Hours could be spend watching this scene.

We headed inland with a taxi for a few hours to see some volcanic craters and walked through a giant lava tunnel carved out about 5 million years ago by a river of boiling rock.  Our driver was actually from Cuba, married to an Ecuadorian, and proved very interesting.

Expecting over-inflated prices, we have been pleasantly surprised.  Prices aren’t third world but we haven’t felt “fleeced”.   There’s a great street of food stalls with tables and chairs down the middle where you can find delicious meals for around $6 with a lively atmosphere and good service. There are also some fantastic galleries and shops selling more than the average tourist tat.  It's refreshing, after Panama, to be somewhere with no real crime problem.  Oh yes, and there's no rubbish!

Four days are a woefully short time to spend here but it has been fantastic.  Maybe we will be able to visit more islands in the archipelago when we return here with our own boat.  In the morning we set sail for the Islas Marquesas, the first stop in French Polynesia.  We have about 3000 miles ahead of us but, with good winds, Spiip should cover that distance in less than 3 weeks.