NUKU HIVA

Our arrival into Baie d’Hakahetau on Nuku Hiva was a little heart-stopping.  Although the entrance is wide the waves are high and we surfed our way in.  It has to be one of the most spectacular anchorages we have ever been in with high cliffs around 2 bays cloaked in ghostly mists and running with waterfalls after the recent rain.  Neither words nor pictures can do it justice and we were lucky to be anchored there alone.

Landing the dinghy is somewhat hazardous on either beach and in the end we towed it up the river to anchor it.  We embarked on a walk to the Vaipo waterfall, the third tallest in Polynesia with a 350m drop.  After leaving the flourishing gardens and orchards of the small village, the hike took us through the Hakaui valley where we saw many signs of much earlier habitation in substantial stone walls and the traditional stone platform bases of houses.   The views of the waterfall along the way were stunning and when we reached the base we were drenched in the spray from the cascading water. 

We were adopted by a dog at the beginning of our 5 hour trek who accompanied us the whole way in return for some of our picnic lunch.  Painfully thin but incredibly energetic and adventurous, she won all of our hearts with her gentle nature.  When we arrived at the first thigh-high river ford, she impressed us by negotiating the fast running current and getting herself across.  On way back she faltered at a particularly hazardous leap of death across boulders with rushing water underneath.  I took pity at her shivering piteous look and waded in to carry her!   We were sorry to say “Abai” to her and bemoaned not being able to dose her up with some worming tablets which she clearly needed.

Back in the village we stopped to watch some kids paddling their kayaks and were tempted to cool off in the river.  One of the boys showed off for the girls by climbing up an overhanging palm tree and swinging off a dangling rope before leaping into the water.  It was a death-defying exercise as his head passed dangerously close the trunk more than once as we gasped!

We are now in Tahoiae, the administrative centre of the Marquesas and hoping to join in the Bastille Day celebrations here tomorrow.  The cathedral here, built in the 70’s, lovely.  Beautifully designed, it is graced with some stunning wood carvings of the stations of the cross and a pulpit cleverly carved out of a huge trunk by local sculptors.  The town quay is also an entertaining spot where the fishermen cut up their fish throwing the bones and scraps in the water to the waiting, circling sharks.  Swimming is definitely not appealing in this bay!