We were unable to get on a ferry to our next stop, Moorea. We discovered we were travelling on a holiday weekend and everything was chock-a-block. In the end we flew Air Tahiti which was a quick half hour hop with wonderful aerial views over the islands.
Only in Moorea for 24 hours, we rented a car and toured the island. First we had to find somewhere to spend the night and our hearts sank when we stopped at the first 3 or 4 pensions and hotels to find them fully booked. Luck was with us when we found space at Fare Maorina in Haapiti. A rainy afternoon curtailed our sightseeing on Monday but we enjoyed listening to some live jazz that evening at a restaurant on beach. The sun was shining on Tuesday and we were able to see the breathtaking views from Belvedere of deep bays and dramatic mountain ranges.
A fast catamaran took us across to Tahiti where checked into Pension at Punaauia. It was quite a contrast to be on such a populous, busy island. We went souvenir hunting in Papeete – a difficult task as everything is so expensive – and managed to find some goodies for the family and a few things for ourselves. I am now the proud owner of a stunning necklace of black Tahitian pearls (an early birthday present!).
We hired a car again and embarked on another round the island tour. Not impressed by the limited views from the coastline road I suggested taking a cross island route through the Papeno’o Valley. It took us through breathtaking scenery of high mountains running with a multitude of waterfalls, rich vegetation, river fords and no sign of habitation. As we progressed to the centre of the island, the road deteriorated and our little Peugeot was struggling with the rough terrain. We pressed on, ignoring signs warning against the road being only suitable for 4 wheel drive vehicles, feeling we were now too far along to turn back. Somehow we made it to the other end but it took all day and was slow progress as we had to construct ramps of stones to enable the car to make it over some of the ridges and ditches; at one point we had to jack it up to move forward. 
The whole experience was made more stressful because we were due to return the car at the airport that evening and fly to London! It was dark by the time we reached the south of the island and we found a chain across the road and a local family was demanding 2,000 Polynesian Francs (about 16 Euros) for us to pass. Apparently the road crossed private land at this point but there was no warning sign for anyone approaching from our direction. We pleaded with the family for sympathy to our plight but they wouldn’t relent and we had to pay.
Somewhat exhausted we boarded our Air Tahiti Nui flight to Los Angeles where we enjoyed a great lunch at the wacky Encounter Restaurant at LAX. Then we flew on to London with Air New Zealand having covered about 9000 miles. We are now adjusting to the 10 hour time difference but enjoying a warm and happy reunion with the family. We will return to Irony in Trinidad at the beginning of October after spending September in Ibiza.
Future news and pictures will be posted on our usual blog site: http://www.sailblogs.com/member/irony/
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