ON TO THE TUAMOTUS

Often called the “Dangerous Archipelago”, the Tuamotus are made up of 78 coral atolls extending almost 1000 miles and known for their variable currents, sudden storms and reefs littered with wrecks.  16,000 people live on 48 of the islands and make a living from copra and black pearls, now only cultured.  The area is famous for the nuclear testing France carried out on Mururoa and Fangatauta from 1966 to 1996 during which time 181 nuclear bombs were exploded in the atmosphere and underground.  It was a shocking disregard for the pristine environment and local people; the cause of long term and continuing environmental and health problems here.

Spiip sped along on our passage from the Marquesas and we arrived off Kauehi in the dark on Saturday morning and hove to until daylight. 

We headed through the Arikitamiro pass bordered by low wooded bands of coral and into the lagoon.  Of about 6000 km² of protected lagoons in the Tuamotus, only 726 km² is actually land and we could barely see the other side of the atoll 7 miles away.  The sun was still too low to make our way safely over to the village so we dropped anchor in 26m of water and decided to snorkel by the pass.

As we each plunged into the water off the dinghy we all let out exclamations of delight at the crystal clear water, colourful coral and multitude of fish.  It was without doubt the best snorkelling any of us have seen since the Red Sea.  We were struck by the size of the fish – huge groupers everywhere, several Napoleon fish, giant morays, schools of enormous parrot fish; it was like a spectacular aquarium.  There were also dozens of sharks of at least 4 different species swimming all around us but fortunately none over 2 metres and for the most part they seemed very uninterested in us.

In the afternoon we anchored by the little village of Tearavero marvelling at the spectacular colours of turquoise water punctuated by ramshackle wooden stilt houses, white sand and green coconut trees.  We walked across the narrow spit of land to the windward side to beachcomb, picking up beautiful pieces of coral and cowry shells.  The next day we returned to anchor near the pass for the night so that we could enjoy some more snorkelling there before setting off for Fakarava on Sunday morning.

ABAI TO THE MARQUESAS

We moved from Taiohae to Anoha Bay on the north of the island to avoid an increasing swell which would make the town’s anchorage untenable.  Once again we were overwhelmed with the spectacular natural beauty of our surroundings.  On arrival we jumped in to snorkel on the nearby reef and were disappointed to find the water was full of plankton (good for manta rays but bad for visibility).  As I reached the shallow coral I looked down to see a reef shark dart underneath me from behind.  I continued on but couldn’t clear my mind of the shark feeding frenzy I had seen off the quay in Taoihae, capitulated and swam back to Spiip. 

Warmly welcomed by the few people living around the bay, we exchanged some wine and a jar of  tuna for armfuls of grapefruit, breadfruit, mangoes, cucumbers, melons, pomegranates and papaya plucked fresh from their trees.  As we waited for the right weather to sail to the Tuamotus, we had some lovely walks, especially one across to the village of Hatiheu in the next bay.

On Tuesday night we prepared to start our 550 mile passage to the next island chain.  We were ready and relaxed as we started to store the dinghy in the tender locker but that mood quickly changed as it sprang off its prong on the end of the boom and started flying about wildly, crashing along the hull.  Before we got it under control it had bent a stainless steel stanchion on one swing and the outboard had taken a chunk out of the side of the boat near a porthole (lucky it didn’t hit the glass)on another.  The aluminium was dented on one of the dinghy’s pontoons, an engine winglet was dislocated and the propeller irrevocably damaged.  More repairs for poor Robin to tackle. 

After dinner we set off from the dead calm of Anoha Bay and found ourselves suddenly in 4 to 5 metre waves and a howling 30 knots of wind.  We had an uncomfortable time rounding the island until we could get on to a more favourable course.  Somewhere in the midst of all this, the cups for the wind indicator came off the top of the mast and we were left with only direction, no true or apparent wind speed. Boats!

14th JULY CELEBRATIONS

Bastille Day happens to coincide with a much earlier pagan festival to mark the Southern Hemisphere solstice and culminates a 2 week event called Heiva.  The day of celebrations began in the morning with a parade of costumed dancers and decorated floats followed by horse races along the beach.  Dressed in grass skirts, adorned with traditional tattoos and painted faces, the riders were a daunting spectacle.   It was not only the participants who dressed up for the occasion; most of the women were decked out with intricate headdresses of fresh flowers which they have specially made up and, if cared for, can last a fortnight. 

The festivities were compeered by one of the many ladyboys here.  Apparently if families have too many male kids, the last born will be brought up as a girl.  It is obviously quite a common practice because we have seen a number of incredibly effeminate men around.  They are a totally accepted and normal part of the community.

We tucked into a delicious spread of quiches, open sandwiches and cakes, all compliments of the town, before watching a dance display and singing by a school group from Tahiti who are visiting the island for the summer.  In the afternoon we sought out the source of some great drumming we heard and ended up watching a rehearsal for a competition.  We were memorised by the energetic show put on by the dancers and the harmonious sound made by a variety of local drums and are sad to be missing the full costumed display which will take place on Saturday night.  Getting in the dinghy we watched dozens of kids swimming just next to quay where we saw all the sharks being fed...population control?!

Returning to town for dinner we chose one of 3 indoor/outdoor eateries arranged around an open space adjacent to the town’s communal hall.  We were treated to a fantastic traditional dance display by different groups and a stunning performance by a fire dancer, all part of the celebrations.    It was the classic Polynesian swaying hips in grass skirts with garlands of sweet smelling flowers around their necks and in their hair.  The ladyboy compeer entertained the crowd with karaoke in between acts!

NUKU HIVA

Our arrival into Baie d’Hakahetau on Nuku Hiva was a little heart-stopping.  Although the entrance is wide the waves are high and we surfed our way in.  It has to be one of the most spectacular anchorages we have ever been in with high cliffs around 2 bays cloaked in ghostly mists and running with waterfalls after the recent rain.  Neither words nor pictures can do it justice and we were lucky to be anchored there alone.

Landing the dinghy is somewhat hazardous on either beach and in the end we towed it up the river to anchor it.  We embarked on a walk to the Vaipo waterfall, the third tallest in Polynesia with a 350m drop.  After leaving the flourishing gardens and orchards of the small village, the hike took us through the Hakaui valley where we saw many signs of much earlier habitation in substantial stone walls and the traditional stone platform bases of houses.   The views of the waterfall along the way were stunning and when we reached the base we were drenched in the spray from the cascading water. 

We were adopted by a dog at the beginning of our 5 hour trek who accompanied us the whole way in return for some of our picnic lunch.  Painfully thin but incredibly energetic and adventurous, she won all of our hearts with her gentle nature.  When we arrived at the first thigh-high river ford, she impressed us by negotiating the fast running current and getting herself across.  On way back she faltered at a particularly hazardous leap of death across boulders with rushing water underneath.  I took pity at her shivering piteous look and waded in to carry her!   We were sorry to say “Abai” to her and bemoaned not being able to dose her up with some worming tablets which she clearly needed.

Back in the village we stopped to watch some kids paddling their kayaks and were tempted to cool off in the river.  One of the boys showed off for the girls by climbing up an overhanging palm tree and swinging off a dangling rope before leaping into the water.  It was a death-defying exercise as his head passed dangerously close the trunk more than once as we gasped!

We are now in Tahoiae, the administrative centre of the Marquesas and hoping to join in the Bastille Day celebrations here tomorrow.  The cathedral here, built in the 70’s, lovely.  Beautifully designed, it is graced with some stunning wood carvings of the stations of the cross and a pulpit cleverly carved out of a huge trunk by local sculptors.  The town quay is also an entertaining spot where the fishermen cut up their fish throwing the bones and scraps in the water to the waiting, circling sharks.  Swimming is definitely not appealing in this bay!